Otherwise it's a matter of point by point checking components for shorts or using a "shotgun" approach and changing all the filter and bypass caps and hoping that one of them was the problem.ĭon't try a fuse of a higher rating than is specified for the organ. There is no easy way to tell without checking the parts. If it's an all solid-state organ, it could be an output device (power transistor), filter cap(s) or even an output coupling cap.
If not, it could be a tube or a actual amplifier component. If it's a vacuum tube organ, you can remove the output stage tubes and try it again, if the fuse still fails instantly, it's almost certainly a power supply component. Likely failed power supply components are the filter caps (especially if the unit has not been used for a while), rectifier diodes (or rectifier tube - does it have a 5U4?), or even the power transformer. If you're sure the "recommended fuse" was the correct value (both current rating and time delay), and it's popping instantly, there is either a power supply issue or a direct short. I bought - NTE Electronics 5MM X 20MM Miniature Glass Slow-Blow 1 Amp Fuse (5-Pack) | 74-5SG1A-C (745SG1AC) | NTE ElectronicsĪnyway, any help is appreciated, I have limited knowledge of this, sorry for such a long post! the first things I noticed was that there was no fuse in the power supply, and one sitting at the bottom of the chassis with two tinfoil leads.I attempted to use that fuse, and it blew, then picked up the recommended fuse, and it blew.which leads me to my question,ġ.0 amp slo-blo 125VAC - for the chassis fuseġ.0 amp 250VAC - for.
Everything inside looks intact, I have a very basic knowledge of electronics. I have recently acquired a Wurlitzer home organ (I'll post some pictures below) from a neighbor, who drunkenly claimed "eh, it worked a year ago, haven't touched it since".
New to the forum, have already learned quite a bit from other posts, and hope to learn more in time.